— 到了40歲還適合穿牛仔外套嗎?當然可以,GQ告訴你如何穿出個人風格。
文 / Paloma González
大部分人的衣櫃裡都有一件牛仔外套,它是一款經典、超越性別與流行的服飾,且有賴於電影角色、音樂家以及時尚品牌的影響,牛仔外套令許多人愛不釋手。有些人可能在達到一定的年紀後(例如超過40歲),就會開始思考牛仔外套會不會顯得太過年輕,所以不再適合穿著了呢?答案是否定的,沒有一項時尚單品會因為年歲流經而不再能使用(嬰兒連身服當然除外),你可以一輩子穿著喜歡的款式,只要留意剪裁與把握整體造型。
NEW YORK, NY - JULY 10: Nick Wooster is seen attending TEDDY ONDO ELLA during Men's New York Fashion Week wearing a Gosha Rubchinskiy jacket, James Perse, Valentino pants, and Church's footwear on July 10, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Matthew Sperzel/Getty Images)Matthew Sperzel
一件好的牛仔丹寧外套可以使用多年。不管是搭配休閒感的造型、裙裝,或是簡單整潔的單品,加上一件牛仔外套可能成為畫龍點睛之筆,為你的整體穿搭增添缺少的潮流酷帥感。牛仔外套可以在不需過度精挑細選衣著的情況下,讓人時尚與舒適同時兼具。時尚最棒的地方在於每個人都能將每件單品穿出自我風格,並根據自身所需挑選,有時候只要簡單地變換顏色就能讓造型大大加分。
選擇深一點的藍色更優雅
LONDON, ENGLAND - JUNE 08: Guests seen outside Iceberg during London Fashion Week Men's June 2019 on June 08, 2019 in London, England. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)Christian Vierig
深色的丹寧布料通常是最受人喜愛與彰顯經典的款式,深色丹寧不僅不受時間限制,隨著年歲「越陳越香」,更是只要稍稍打扮一下,就是能與正裝造型搭配的好選擇。一件永不過時的牛仔外套應以自然沉穩的深色系為主,不會有刺眼、浮誇的裝飾,或是明顯的洗色,可以適用於各式場合。
嘗試不同色系
MILAN, ITALY - JUNE 16: A guest, wearing a white t-shirt, beige pants and dark blue denim jacket, is seen during the Milan Men's Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2020 on June 16, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Claudio Lavenia/Getty Images)Claudio Lavenia
藍色系的牛仔外套是個好選擇,但也可以嘗試讓人看起來更有搖滾風格的黑色系;或是穿上適合夏天的白色系,勇於嘗試各種能展現你個人風格的色調。近年來流行的軍綠色、奶油色,甚至粉紅色都是能展現差異性的好選項(穿搭也不會令人感到有重複性)。
找到合適(且經典)的剪裁
MILAN, ITALY - JANUARY 14: A guest is seen wearing denim jacket outside N.21 during Milan Menswear Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2019/20 on January 14, 2019 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Christian Vierig/Getty Images)Christian Vierig
剪裁是牛仔外套最為關鍵的地方,牽涉到了外套的版型以及合身性。經典的卡車司機外套擁有兩個前身口袋,且剪裁上較為方正箱型,適合不同身形的人穿著。判斷外套長度的小訣竅之一,注意外套可舒適地容納裡層穿有他件衣服,且袖長至手腕處。
避免過多的裝飾與細節
PARIS, FRANCE - JUNE 18: A guest wears sunglasses, a white top, bracelets, a blue denim jacket, sand-color pants, outside Heron Preston, during Paris Fashion Week - Menswear Spring/Summer 2020, on June 18, 2019 in Paris, France. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot
俗話說「簡單就是美」,往往設計簡約的衣服質感較為精緻且更耐穿。尤其在休閒造型中,可以試著避免充滿補丁、鮮豔印花,或是大量破壞細節的款式;若是選擇穿著充滿細節與點綴的外套,其他部分的穿搭則需要更為巧妙地留意,以利平衡整體造型。
混搭正裝單品
LONDON, ENGLAND - JANUARY 08 : Creative director Eshan Kali wears Agy and Sam jeans, R.M Williams shirt, Levi's jacket and scarf and a Laird and Co hat day 3 of London Mens Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2018, on January 08, 2018 in London, England. (Photo by Kirstin Sinclair/Getty Images)Kirstin Sinclair
「加拿大式燕尾服(Canadian tuxedo;丹寧與丹寧搭配)」是一種經典的穿搭方式,但不妨考慮混搭一些正裝單品,讓你的牛仔外套穿搭別有風味。例如改穿Chinos(斜紋布褲,亦或稱卡其褲),或是西裝褲;也可以選擇搭配樂福鞋(Loafers)或靴子替代網球鞋等休閒鞋;或是以襯衫與毛衣取代T-shirt內搭。
冬天來個多層次穿搭
LONDON, ENGLAND - JANUARY 05: Bruce Pask wears glasses, a blue denim jacket, a checked pattern long coat, dark gray pants, Converse shoes, gloves, a bag, during London Fashion Week Men's January 2020 on January 05, 2020 in London, England. (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)Edward Berthelot
在冬季造型中,牛仔外套可以成為多層次穿搭的好幫手,不論是大衣、背心,或是與休閒西裝外套搭配,只要不顯笨重都可多方嘗試;這也是一個在正裝需求場合穿著牛仔外套的好技巧。